Category: Travelogue Faroe Islands

  • Camping Adventure in the Faroe Islands

    Camping Adventure in the Faroe Islands

    Camping Adventure
    in the Faroe Islands

    An Adventurous Start
    to the Journey

    The ferry journey from Hirtshals to Tórshavn turned out to be the biggest positive surprise. With two boys just under 10 years old, I was curious how it would go. I’ve always personally enjoyed ferry rides and find something adventurous about them, and it truly turned out to be a fantastic start to our trip. Especially the outdoor hot tubs with views of the endless blue Atlantic horizon, and the lavish buffet, where you can fill yourself with everything from langoustines to roast lamb and homemade salads, were favourites. 

    The ferry was cosily decorated with historical photos and informative texts on the walls, sparking interesting conversations about alternative ways of living. Passing by the Shetland Islands and small islands off the Norwegian coast, there was a contagious curiosity on deck. People stood with binoculars and camera zoom lenses, excitedly pointing out and discussing what we passed by. 

    Having lived alternatively in our camper for over a year, we hadn’t had a proper journey like this until now. I think we might have been particularly lucky with the weather—it was a very calm trip all the way.

    Jes Lindrum Brinch

    Faroe Islands

    Camper

    Summer

    The Faroe Islands…
    the Perfect Choice

    The 18 manageable islands of the Faroe Islands are indeed stunningly green and wild. However, weather showing them at their best comes and goes. It’s all about being in the right place at the right time here. Therefore, it’s truly perfect to drive around with a campervan between the islands. It naturally allows you to chase the driest weather conditions.

    As soon as you leave Tórshavn, you quickly find yourself far away from facilities like food, drinks, and toilets. Regarding the latter, privacy is scarce on the grassy slopes along the roads, making it especially convenient always to have your own toilet.

    The roads are fine to drive on. You quickly get used to giving way to sheep and pulling aside for oncoming traffic on narrow roads. Speeds are naturally lower when driving a campervan on winding roads, giving you more time to enjoy the views. In fact, the elevated seating position in the camper offers an even more spectacular view of the coastal cliffs. You can see clearly over guardrails and better down the mountainsides towards the water.

    Which Island to Choose?

    We felt that Eysturoy has it all. Heading north, you find dramatic views with steep slopes and winding roads. To the south, the landscape flattens out, and the atmosphere becomes more rural. However, you don’t really need to choose. Most of the islands are well-connected, making it easy to drive and see several famous beautiful places in a single day. The islands are breathtakingly beautiful in many places, so it’s best to accept you’ll have to prioritise what to visit. 

    We particularly enjoyed camping in Gjógv. It’s a lovely location with a charming atmosphere. From here, you can easily access the starting point for the hike up Slættaratindur, which, at 880 metres, is the highest mountain in the Faroe Islands. The name means “flat mountain summit,” and it’s featured in the Guinness Book of Records for offering the longest line of sight in the world—550 km all the way to Vatnajökull in Iceland, due to atmospheric refraction effects. We curiously observed those on their way up and had brief chats with hikers coming down. It looked manageable, but the boys were somewhat tired of hiking at that moment, so that adventure is still waiting for us.

    Another advantage of Gjógv is that the village reportedly often has sunshine, especially when southern winds pull a blanket of fog over many other interesting spots.

    The World’s Smallest Capital

    It doesn’t take long to walk through the main street here, and shopping options are limited for a capital city. But there’s everything you need, and in a way, it feels authentic and refreshing that Tórshavn hasn’t become yet another capital designed just for tourists. The SMS shopping centre offers great milkshakes and tasty food. The local swimming pool provides diving boards, ice-cold dips, and optional jacuzzi sessions. Near the town’s beach, there are good fishing opportunities, and when fog or rain settles in, at least three cosy cafés in town offer delicious coffee and cakes.

    Don’t miss out on strolling through the old town, feeling the sense of history in the narrow alleyways among colourful wooden houses. Start your walk, for example, at Undir Ryggi, where several houses have grass roofs, and it feels as if time has stood still.

    Practical Tips

    Being prepared for weather changes is crucial for a good experience. Clothing layers come on and off constantly throughout the day, so wearing multiple layers along with always having a hat is advisable. Naturally, waterproof outer layers and footwear are essential. Wool was also a natural choice because it remains warm even when damp. Wool was present in socks, hats, and base layers close to the skin.

    We prioritised campsites that were sheltered and relatively close to places we wanted to visit. This made it easier to take advantage of weather breaks. All the campsites we visited had friendly owners, making arrival coordination easy. They typically offer similar basic amenities, but especially the larger site in Vestmanna offered good shelter, was central for excursions, and had a comfortable common room. It was also reasonably priced.

    Tunnels save a lot of travel time. Thanks to recent new tunnels, seven of the islands and about 90% of the population are now connected by land. It’s easier than ever to experience a lot with a campervan. The natural scenery on the islands can be quite similar, but specific areas highlight distinct variations, like travelling from the flat landscapes of Sandoy to the dramatic northern parts of Eysturoy. The journey from Tórshavn to the northern islands in the east also offers beautiful encounters with varying atmospheres and views.

    The Faroe Islands have excellent roads, and even with a campervan, it’s easy to drive on small winding roads along the coast, out to tiny villages, as well as on main roads. Allow yourself some nights on the intimate campsites right by the sea, where you can enjoy the ocean air alongside morning coffee, freshly baked croissants from your Omnia oven, and where the ever-changing light provides natural entertainment. Expect simple facilities, firm ground at campsites, and minimal opportunities to purchase items you might suddenly need. However, being prepared makes arriving with your campervan feel liberating, as you typically bring along everything you need. Try, for example, the campsite at Høgni in Æðuvík, located right by the sea.

    There’s a good chance of running into the same fellow campers across different sites and in small villages. The authentic small campsites provide great opportunities for greeting each other and sharing tips and stories. For example, we repeatedly encountered a Chinese campervan that had travelled all the way from Beijing, engaging in interesting conversations each time we met.
    Have a great trip.

  • A Big Surprise

    A Big Surprise

    A Big Surprise

    Visiting the Faroe Islands
    With Our Camper

    It was a huge surprise when earlier in the year I won a trip for two to the Faroe Islands with Smyril Line. The journey was the prize in a Facebook contest. Encountering the majestic landscapes and the welcoming people was a dream come true. 

    The adventure began in late June 2022 on board Norröna in the tranquil waters of Hirtshals Port, Denmark, where my travel companion and I were roomed in an elegant luxury cabin. After a leisurely stroll around the ship we could look forward to an exquisite three-course meal at the gourmet restaurant Munkastova. Satiated and happy we walked back to the cabin where we crawled into bed and let the waves gently lull us to sleep. 

    The seawards approach to the Faroe Islands was indescribably beautiful and idyllic. On the first evening we walked along the waterfront from Tórshavn Camping with its sublime view of Nólsoy Island. The next day we loaded up the camper with food and beverages and a journey of freedom and spontaneity could begin. We took it one day at a time and let the weather guide us to our experiences.

    Mette and Ole

    Faroe Islands

    Camper

    Summer

    Colourful Houses
    Surrounded by Cliffs

    We visited places like the charming village Gjógv at the tip of the second-largest island in the archipelago, Eysturoy. The cosy hamlet looks like a postcard with its brightly coloured houses surrounded by cliffs. Another picturesque experience was the boat trip to the Vestmanna Bird Cliffs where we weaved in and out between steep looming cliff faces and deep grottoes carved by the surf over millions of years. We were lucky to spot northern fulmars, puffins and other marine birds on the cliff ledges. 

    An Exceptional Nature Experience

    On the very edge of the Faroe Islands lies the village Gásadalur, where we experienced the imposing waterfall Múlafossur, which tumbles straight off the cliffs into the ocean. An exceptional nature experience! Afterwards we had our lunch at Café Gásadalsgarður, which once a year is transformed into a slaughterhouse. The great Faroese food was enjoyed in beautiful surroundings with a view of the western island Mykines. Another place with magical panoramic views across Vágar and Vestmannasund is the mountain Sornfelli. It was the best view from a parking lot ever. But the fog caught up with us before sunset, so we drove along the stunning meandering road down the mountain again before nightfall. 

    An Explosion
    of the Senses

    The Faroe Islands doesn’t merely offer stunning nature, but also impressive architecture, churches and cultural experiences. We visited the ruins of the cathedral in the old bishop’s seat, Kirkjubøur, as well as Christian’s Church in Klaksvík, where you can take in Joakim Skovgaard’s altarpiece, which has travelled from Viborg Cathedral, Denmark, to the National Gallery of Denmark until it found a home in the Faroe Islands. The church’s old baptismal font is a gift from Denmark. 

    We had an entirely unique experience when we drove through the Eysturoy Tunnel, which is an 11-kilometre-long subsea tunnel. Listening to the soundtrack from the tunnel’s opening all the impressions melted into a sensory explosion of music, lighting and dancing figures.

    Culinary Experiences in Tórshavn

    Tórshavn is a town in dazzling colours with charming grass-thatched wooden houses, old warehouses, a marina and the Nordic House, which is a Nordic culture centre beautifully located among rolling green hills. If you would like to explore the culinary options there is a plethora of choice in Tórshavn. One evening we dined at Katrina Christiansen, a cosy Faroese tapas restaurant located in a 17th century timber house. Another evening we ate at Víngarðurin, which doubles as a restaurant and a gallery. In both places the food was top notch. Overall the Fare Islands has a tranquil atmosphere and unique nature, and we experienced the marvellous hospitality everywhere. The crossing back to Denmark was great too. Dead calm seas again and plenty of time to enjoy the amenities, seascapes, food and atmosphere on board. 

    Thank you for making a dream come true!  

  • A Journey of Freedom and Rediscovery

    A Journey of Freedom and Rediscovery

    A Journey of Freedom and Rediscovery

    Freedom on Two Wheels

    On the quiet paths around Iceland and the Faroe Islands – a journey full of energy and breathtaking nature, to people who have touched my heart.

    Riding a motorbike has always been a feeling of boundless freedom for me, a passion since my youth. I spent weekends on the road, first on a scooter, then on motorbikes, exploring Europe and learning to repair the machines myself. However, this passion was halted abruptly in 1992 when a close friend tragically lost his life in a race in Sicily.

    Two years later, I ended my motorized adventures, staying off motorbikes for over 30 years. But two years ago, the desire to ride returned – this time with a twist: I wanted to ride an electric motorbike.

    Florian Heiberger

    Iceland & Faroe Islands

    Motorcycle

    Summer

    Choosing the Right Electric Motorbike

    Finding the right electric motorbike was a challenge. My first choice was a model from the US brand Zero Motorcycles, but technical issues and a lengthy charging cycle of five to six hours proved inconvenient.

    Eventually, I discovered the Energica Eva SS9 from the Italian manufacturer Energica, sold by eBike-Store Dreiland. Its DC fast charging technology was the deciding factor, enabling full charges in just 40 minutes. With the right bike secured, I was ready for my first travel routes.

    Mapping the Journey

    In 2023, I ventured across the Baltic States and Scandinavia. In 2024, I planned an adventure around Iceland and the Faroe Islands.

    Planning the route for an electric motorbike was no small task. Using Google Maps, electric charging point apps like “Chargefinder,” and a reprogrammed hiking app, I pinpointed CCS charging points for faster recharges. On the Faroe Islands, elbil.fo was invaluable.

    The Ferry Adventure to Iceland

    I booked the ferry and cabin with Smyril Line months in advance. The journey to the ferry harbor in Hirtshals, Denmark, took me five days. Upon arrival, I joined at least 100 motorcyclists from around the world, all eager for adventure. Smyril Line offered every comfort – delicious food, entertainment, and relaxation – making the journey itself feel like a cruise.

    The Challenges of Riding in Iceland

    Landing in Seyðisfjörður, I quickly appreciated my motorbike’s 300-kilogram weight, plus the added load of charging cables, luggage, and a tent. I traveled clockwise around Iceland, starting with the south coast, notorious for its strong winds.

    Each morning, I checked weather updates at umferdin.is. Headwinds consumed up to 20% of the battery capacity, so I calculated a range of about 100 kilometers per charge. The charging breaks became opportunities to explore, meet locals, and immerse myself in Icelandic hospitality.

    People and Places
    That Left a Mark

    During a stop in Húsavík, an elderly couple invited me for coffee and treats, charging my motorbike four times in total. Iceland’s clean energy sources – 75% hydropower and 25% geothermal – added to the experience, with a visit to Hellisheiði, the world’s largest geothermal power plant, becoming a highlight.

    A Sustainable Adventure to Remember

    In four weeks, I traveled 6,000 kilometers, stopped at 59 charging points, and documented every station with photos and videos. The breathtaking landscapes often brought me to tears, and the journey rekindled my enthusiasm for motorcycling.

    This adventure proved to me that sustainable mobility and a thirst for exploration can go hand in hand. I hope my experiences inspire others to embrace electromobility and explore the world responsibly.

    For more impressions and films, visit my website: acdc.bike

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