Category: Travelogue Faroe Islands

  • When Solo Adventure Becomes a Life of Freedom  

    When Solo Adventure Becomes a Life of Freedom  

    When Solo Adventure Becomes a Life of Freedom 

    Nomadic Soul

    My name is Nata, I’m from Switzerland but have lived nomadically for twenty years. The last five completely on the road (on my motorbike). For me, movement is not just a break, it is my way of living. I choose more nature every day, distance from cities, noise, and schedules. Working on the road gives me freedom of time and place.  

    This journey to the north follows that same need for freedom and peace. Carried by the sea between Denmark, the Faroe Islands, and Iceland. 

    Nata On The Road 

    Iceland & Faroe Islands

    Motorbike

    Spring

    Why Iceland
    and the Faroes?

    Iceland stayed unfinished in my mind. My first attempt ended before even starting with an off-road crash and an unsolicited helicopter ride. I never completed the route, and it has stuck in my mind since then, I must return, on my own bike, and ride the ring road! 

    For the Faroe Islands, it’s different. I arrived with no plan and no expectations. I come to see what I will find. Both places offer exactly what I seek when I travel: remote landscapes, clean air, quiet roads, and the feeling of being far from civilization. 

    The Crossing with Norröna

    Since that promise, of returning on my own bike, I knew my only way of fulfilling that dream is taking my motorbike on a ferry! 

    This is my first time taking a ferry like Norröna, I have quite a lot of experience with ferries, mostly in the Mediterranean, but, let me tell you this is next level! 
    Boarding was so fast, smooth and simple it feels almost too good to be true. I am experiencing three different types of cabins during the trip, expecting something basic and finding pure luxury instead.  

    The atmosphere on board surprises me too, many quiet spaces, excellent food, and… I still can’t believe it, a sauna, a hot tub, a gym and even a cinema!  
    This is not a ferry anymore, this is a cruise! 

    The sea and my time on board of the Norröna is about to become more than just the link between each chapter of my journey, it is becoming an experience in itself! 

    The Faroe Islands

    And here I am, about to start the first chapter of this journey. We are arriving in the Faroe Islands. It’s May and I am arriving under unexpected spring sunshine! 
    Here, I’m riding without a strict plan, following roads that pull me in: challenging myself on a dirt track to Sornfelli, falling in love with the valley before Saksun, amazed by the view of Skarðsáfossur, and the peaceful energy of Sandoy.  

    The landscapes are raw and peaceful, but what I truly fall in love with is… the baby sheep! All those cute lambs by the road make me stop more than once.  
     
    The Faroes feel raw, calm and full of surprises. 

    Iceland:
    a Story Left Open

    The ramp dropping in Seyðisfjörður, means to me closing a loop I have left unfinished, but at the same time opening a new one.  

    I feel two emotions at once: the quiet happiness of reaching a goal and fulfilling a dream, a kind of humble pride. At the same time the thrill and excitement of a new adventure about to start, that addictive feeling of stepping into the unknown, with a small touch of nerves.
     
    The road climbs immediately. Snow lines up the pass and it feels like the real beginning. The wide spaces, the cold air, and the first long lines of the Eastfjords remind me instantly why I return. I choose spring for two reasons: to avoid the crowds and because photography is at my core. And there is nothing more beautiful to me than mountains in spring, still carrying snow on their peaks while the first lupins bloom under the early sun.  

    Photography
    and Visuals

    For me travelling is about images. I couldn’t imagine a trip without a camera in my hands. And Iceland is a country built for photography: wide valleys, strong contrasts, fast changing light, landscapes out of this planet! This is part of the reason why I travel alone. I take my time to stop everywhere, ride the same road twice, re-visit place, fly my drone, and shoot in silence. Days around Mývatn, Snæfellsjökull, and Austfirðir give me some of my favorite frames of the whole journey, but the place I’ve spent the most time taking photos is probably the Puffin cliffs! 

    Puffins and Emotion 

    Reaching Bakkagerði after riding 1h on gravel road made me feel really proud, challenging myself to reach a place I was dreaming of since years.  

    But I didn’t find what I was expecting! The road is under construction and minutes before arriving, I have to turn back, I can’t handle riding my motorbike in such deep loose stones. What a frustration, my big dream of seeing puffins with my own eyes for first time is broken… It is only later, on the very other side of the island, in the westfjords that I will see my first ever puffin, the reward of a very challenging off-road ride on my motorbike!  

    I am there alone, no one else, and suddenly I see it: ONE puffin, just one, like it would have been waiting for me. This is one of those moments that will stay with me forever. 

    Off Road Confidence

    My previous trip through Africa gives me the first boost of confidence but Iceland confirms it.  

    I am riding a modified Royal Enfield Himalayan, which I call “my little tractor” for first time after the time I spent on it in the workshop. Twenty kilos lighter, a new exhaust and new suspension, about to be tested out on all Icelandic terrains! 
     
    One day, leaving tarmac, I expect the usual knot in my stomach when hitting Hverfjall volcanic ground. But that day… it never comes. It feels almost like magic, as if Iceland switches something inside me. It fuels me with boldness and confidence. Filling my blood with a new thirst for adventure. Now I feel ready for more. What about a F-roads challenge next time?  

    Moto Camping

    Camping is a key part of how I travel, a way to remain closer to nature and feel for freedom. No need to book hotels in advance, plan the entire route, it comes with a lot of flexibility. A tent, a coffee maker, a gas stove, and solar panel and I feel as free as a bird!  

    Iceland challenges that simplicity with really cold weather and strong winds. One storm even teared my tent apart! What a story. But I guess, that is what makes us feel alive, isn’t it?  

    Safety and People

    One reason I do camp less than I would like is because of safety. Being a woman alone on the road brings certain challenges, and being a creator means, I am travelling with a lot of values. Iceland and Faroe is one of the few places where I feel completely safe. So safe I still can’t believe it. I trust the environment and the people 200%. I leave my key in the bike at night, all my gear in my tent, and never worry. That safety lets me finally slow down, feel in peace and breathe. Something I wish we could all experience more often in more places around our planet 

    A Journey
    That Is Just Starting

    This journey is not finished. I fall in love with both, Faroe and Iceland. I will return soon, for more photography, to explore what I missed and for that new off-road challenge I set up for myself in my head the F roads are awaiting me! 
     
    If you are considering doing a similar route, stop thinking, go for it! 
    Take your bike, take your time, and let the sea carry you to the most epic adventure of your life! 

    I am currently sharing that journey on YouTube, Follow my Northern Adventure on: www.youtube.com/@nataontheroad 

  • Camping Adventure in the Faroe Islands

    Camping Adventure in the Faroe Islands

    Camping Adventure
    in the Faroe Islands

    An Adventurous Start
    to the Journey

    The ferry journey from Hirtshals to Tórshavn turned out to be the biggest positive surprise. With two boys just under 10 years old, I was curious how it would go. I’ve always personally enjoyed ferry rides and find something adventurous about them, and it truly turned out to be a fantastic start to our trip. Especially the outdoor hot tubs with views of the endless blue Atlantic horizon, and the lavish buffet, where you can fill yourself with everything from langoustines to roast lamb and homemade salads, were favourites. 

    The ferry was cosily decorated with historical photos and informative texts on the walls, sparking interesting conversations about alternative ways of living. Passing by the Shetland Islands and small islands off the Norwegian coast, there was a contagious curiosity on deck. People stood with binoculars and camera zoom lenses, excitedly pointing out and discussing what we passed by. 

    Having lived alternatively in our camper for over a year, we hadn’t had a proper journey like this until now. I think we might have been particularly lucky with the weather—it was a very calm trip all the way.

    Jes Lindrum Brinch

    Faroe Islands

    Camper

    Summer 2024

    The Faroe Islands…
    the Perfect Choice

    The 18 manageable islands of the Faroe Islands are indeed stunningly green and wild. However, weather showing them at their best comes and goes. It’s all about being in the right place at the right time here. Therefore, it’s truly perfect to drive around with a campervan between the islands. It naturally allows you to chase the driest weather conditions.

    As soon as you leave Tórshavn, you quickly find yourself far away from facilities like food, drinks, and toilets. Regarding the latter, privacy is scarce on the grassy slopes along the roads, making it especially convenient always to have your own toilet.

    The roads are fine to drive on. You quickly get used to giving way to sheep and pulling aside for oncoming traffic on narrow roads. Speeds are naturally lower when driving a campervan on winding roads, giving you more time to enjoy the views. In fact, the elevated seating position in the camper offers an even more spectacular view of the coastal cliffs. You can see clearly over guardrails and better down the mountainsides towards the water.

    Which Island to Choose?

    We felt that Eysturoy has it all. Heading north, you find dramatic views with steep slopes and winding roads. To the south, the landscape flattens out, and the atmosphere becomes more rural. However, you don’t really need to choose. Most of the islands are well-connected, making it easy to drive and see several famous beautiful places in a single day. The islands are breathtakingly beautiful in many places, so it’s best to accept you’ll have to prioritise what to visit. 

    We particularly enjoyed camping in Gjógv. It’s a lovely location with a charming atmosphere. From here, you can easily access the starting point for the hike up Slættaratindur, which, at 880 metres, is the highest mountain in the Faroe Islands. The name means “flat mountain summit,” and it’s featured in the Guinness Book of Records for offering the longest line of sight in the world—550 km all the way to Vatnajökull in Iceland, due to atmospheric refraction effects. We curiously observed those on their way up and had brief chats with hikers coming down. It looked manageable, but the boys were somewhat tired of hiking at that moment, so that adventure is still waiting for us.

    Another advantage of Gjógv is that the village reportedly often has sunshine, especially when southern winds pull a blanket of fog over many other interesting spots.

    The World’s Smallest Capital

    It doesn’t take long to walk through the main street here, and shopping options are limited for a capital city. But there’s everything you need, and in a way, it feels authentic and refreshing that Tórshavn hasn’t become yet another capital designed just for tourists. The SMS shopping centre offers great milkshakes and tasty food. The local swimming pool provides diving boards, ice-cold dips, and optional jacuzzi sessions. Near the town’s beach, there are good fishing opportunities, and when fog or rain settles in, at least three cosy cafés in town offer delicious coffee and cakes.

    Don’t miss out on strolling through the old town, feeling the sense of history in the narrow alleyways among colourful wooden houses. Start your walk, for example, at Undir Ryggi, where several houses have grass roofs, and it feels as if time has stood still.

    Practical Tips

    Being prepared for weather changes is crucial for a good experience. Clothing layers come on and off constantly throughout the day, so wearing multiple layers along with always having a hat is advisable. Naturally, waterproof outer layers and footwear are essential. Wool was also a natural choice because it remains warm even when damp. Wool was present in socks, hats, and base layers close to the skin.

    We prioritised campsites that were sheltered and relatively close to places we wanted to visit. This made it easier to take advantage of weather breaks. All the campsites we visited had friendly owners, making arrival coordination easy. They typically offer similar basic amenities, but especially the larger site in Vestmanna offered good shelter, was central for excursions, and had a comfortable common room. It was also reasonably priced.

    Tunnels save a lot of travel time. Thanks to recent new tunnels, seven of the islands and about 90% of the population are now connected by land. It’s easier than ever to experience a lot with a campervan. The natural scenery on the islands can be quite similar, but specific areas highlight distinct variations, like travelling from the flat landscapes of Sandoy to the dramatic northern parts of Eysturoy. The journey from Tórshavn to the northern islands in the east also offers beautiful encounters with varying atmospheres and views.

    The Faroe Islands have excellent roads, and even with a campervan, it’s easy to drive on small winding roads along the coast, out to tiny villages, as well as on main roads. Allow yourself some nights on the intimate campsites right by the sea, where you can enjoy the ocean air alongside morning coffee, freshly baked croissants from your Omnia oven, and where the ever-changing light provides natural entertainment. Expect simple facilities, firm ground at campsites, and minimal opportunities to purchase items you might suddenly need. However, being prepared makes arriving with your campervan feel liberating, as you typically bring along everything you need. Try, for example, the campsite at Høgni in Æðuvík, located right by the sea.

    There’s a good chance of running into the same fellow campers across different sites and in small villages. The authentic small campsites provide great opportunities for greeting each other and sharing tips and stories. For example, we repeatedly encountered a Chinese campervan that had travelled all the way from Beijing, engaging in interesting conversations each time we met.

    Have a great trip.

  • A Big Surprise

    A Big Surprise

    A Big Surprise

    Visiting the Faroe Islands
    With Our Camper

    It was a huge surprise when earlier in the year I won a trip for two to the Faroe Islands with Smyril Line. The journey was the prize in a Facebook contest. Encountering the majestic landscapes and the welcoming people was a dream come true. 

    The adventure began in late June 2022 on board Norröna in the tranquil waters of Hirtshals Port, Denmark, where my travel companion and I were roomed in an elegant luxury cabin. After a leisurely stroll around the ship we could look forward to an exquisite three-course meal at the gourmet restaurant Munkastova. Satiated and happy we walked back to the cabin where we crawled into bed and let the waves gently lull us to sleep. 

    The seawards approach to the Faroe Islands was indescribably beautiful and idyllic. On the first evening we walked along the waterfront from Tórshavn Camping with its sublime view of Nólsoy Island. The next day we loaded up the camper with food and beverages and a journey of freedom and spontaneity could begin. We took it one day at a time and let the weather guide us to our experiences.

    Mette and Ole

    Faroe Islands

    Camper

    Summer

    Colourful Houses
    Surrounded by Cliffs

    We visited places like the charming village Gjógv at the tip of the second-largest island in the archipelago, Eysturoy. The cosy hamlet looks like a postcard with its brightly coloured houses surrounded by cliffs. Another picturesque experience was the boat trip to the Vestmanna Bird Cliffs where we weaved in and out between steep looming cliff faces and deep grottoes carved by the surf over millions of years. We were lucky to spot northern fulmars, puffins and other marine birds on the cliff ledges. 

    An Exceptional
    Nature Experience

    On the very edge of the Faroe Islands lies the village Gásadalur, where we experienced the imposing waterfall Múlafossur, which tumbles straight off the cliffs into the ocean. An exceptional nature experience! Afterwards we had our lunch at Café Gásadalsgarður, which once a year is transformed into a slaughterhouse. The great Faroese food was enjoyed in beautiful surroundings with a view of the western island Mykines. Another place with magical panoramic views across Vágar and Vestmannasund is the mountain Sornfelli. It was the best view from a parking lot ever. But the fog caught up with us before sunset, so we drove along the stunning meandering road down the mountain again before nightfall. 

    An Explosion
    of the Senses

    The Faroe Islands doesn’t merely offer stunning nature, but also impressive architecture, churches and cultural experiences. We visited the ruins of the cathedral in the old bishop’s seat, Kirkjubøur, as well as Christian’s Church in Klaksvík, where you can take in Joakim Skovgaard’s altarpiece, which has travelled from Viborg Cathedral, Denmark, to the National Gallery of Denmark until it found a home in the Faroe Islands. The church’s old baptismal font is a gift from Denmark. 

    We had an entirely unique experience when we drove through the Eysturoy Tunnel, which is an 11-kilometre-long subsea tunnel. Listening to the soundtrack from the tunnel’s opening all the impressions melted into a sensory explosion of music, lighting and dancing figures.

    Culinary Experiences in Tórshavn

    Tórshavn is a town in dazzling colours with charming grass-thatched wooden houses, old warehouses, a marina and the Nordic House, which is a Nordic culture centre beautifully located among rolling green hills. If you would like to explore the culinary options there is a plethora of choice in Tórshavn. One evening we dined at Katrina Christiansen, a cosy Faroese tapas restaurant located in a 17th century timber house. Another evening we ate at Víngarðurin, which doubles as a restaurant and a gallery. In both places the food was top notch. Overall the Fare Islands has a tranquil atmosphere and unique nature, and we experienced the marvellous hospitality everywhere. The crossing back to Denmark was great too. Dead calm seas again and plenty of time to enjoy the amenities, seascapes, food and atmosphere on board. 

    Thank you for making a dream come true!  

  • A Journey of Freedom and Rediscovery

    A Journey of Freedom and Rediscovery

    A Journey of Freedom and Rediscovery

    Freedom on Two Wheels

    On the quiet paths around Iceland and the Faroe Islands – a journey full of energy and breathtaking nature, to people who have touched my heart.

    Riding a motorbike has always been a feeling of boundless freedom for me, a passion since my youth. I spent weekends on the road, first on a scooter, then on motorbikes, exploring Europe and learning to repair the machines myself. However, this passion was halted abruptly in 1992 when a close friend tragically lost his life in a race in Sicily.

    Two years later, I ended my motorized adventures, staying off motorbikes for over 30 years. But two years ago, the desire to ride returned – this time with a twist: I wanted to ride an electric motorbike.

    Florian Heiberger

    Iceland & Faroe Islands

    Motorcycle

    Summer 2024

    Choosing the Right Electric Motorbike

    Finding the right electric motorbike was a challenge. My first choice was a model from the US brand Zero Motorcycles, but technical issues and a lengthy charging cycle of five to six hours proved inconvenient.

    Eventually, I discovered the Energica Eva SS9 from the Italian manufacturer Energica, sold by eBike-Store Dreiland. Its DC fast charging technology was the deciding factor, enabling full charges in just 40 minutes. With the right bike secured, I was ready for my first travel routes.

    Mapping the Journey

    In 2023, I ventured across the Baltic States and Scandinavia. In 2024, I planned an adventure around Iceland and the Faroe Islands.

    Planning the route for an electric motorbike was no small task. Using Google Maps, electric charging point apps like “Chargefinder,” and a reprogrammed hiking app, I pinpointed CCS charging points for faster recharges. On the Faroe Islands, elbil.fo was invaluable.

    The Ferry Adventure to Iceland

    I booked the ferry and cabin with Smyril Line months in advance. The journey to the ferry harbor in Hirtshals, Denmark, took me five days. Upon arrival, I joined at least 100 motorcyclists from around the world, all eager for adventure. Smyril Line offered every comfort – delicious food, entertainment, and relaxation – making the journey itself feel like a cruise.

    The Challenges of Riding in Iceland

    Landing in Seyðisfjörður, I quickly appreciated my motorbike’s 300-kilogram weight, plus the added load of charging cables, luggage, and a tent. I traveled clockwise around Iceland, starting with the south coast, notorious for its strong winds.

    Each morning, I checked weather updates at umferdin.is. Headwinds consumed up to 20% of the battery capacity, so I calculated a range of about 100 kilometers per charge. The charging breaks became opportunities to explore, meet locals, and immerse myself in Icelandic hospitality.

    People and Places
    That Left a Mark

    During a stop in Húsavík, an elderly couple invited me for coffee and treats, charging my motorbike four times in total. Iceland’s clean energy sources – 75% hydropower and 25% geothermal – added to the experience, with a visit to Hellisheiði, the world’s largest geothermal power plant, becoming a highlight.

    A Sustainable Adventure to Remember

    In four weeks, I traveled 6,000 kilometers, stopped at 59 charging points, and documented every station with photos and videos. The breathtaking landscapes often brought me to tears, and the journey rekindled my enthusiasm for motorcycling.

    This adventure proved to me that sustainable mobility and a thirst for exploration can go hand in hand. I hope my experiences inspire others to embrace electromobility and explore the world responsibly.

    For more impressions and films, visit my website: acdc.bike

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